Pages

Saturday, July 27, 2019

SOME QUESTIONS ABOUT COTTON

SOME QUESTIONS ABOUT COTTON:
Q-What is main content of cotton?
A-Cellulose is the principal content of the cotton fibres.

Q-What is moisture content of cotton?
A- The moisture content of cotton is 8.5%.

Q-What do you mean by short fibre(cotton)?
A - The cotton fibres having the length shorter than 12m.m are considered as short fibres.

Q-Which is the best cotton in the world?
A-Egyptian cotton is considered as the best cotton in the world.

Q-What is a Bt cotton?
A-Bt cotton is genetically modified variety of cotton it protects itself from the attack of mothes and insects.  It is grown with using less amount of pesticides.

Q-What do you mean by textile fibre?
A-“A fibre having length to diameter ratio more than 100 and some basic chareteristics is called textile fibre”

Q.- What do you mean by cotton lint?
A.- The seeds free cotton fibres are known as cotton lint.

Q.-  What is FP bales?

A.-FP bales are full pressed bales having standard weight of 170 kgs.

Q.-What is the ginning process?

A.-The process of separation of cotton fibres from cotton seeds is called ginning.

Q-What do you mean by “out-turn” ?

A- Amount of cotton lint obtained after ginning in raw cotton expressed in term of percentage is called Out-turn.

Q-What  do you mean by cowdy?

A-  The immatured, damaged,and or infected bolls of seed cotton are called cowdy. , which is removed at the time of cleaning of seed cotton either through kapas cleaner or by way of hand grading.

Q-What is candy?

A-One candy is an unit of weight in respect of cotton fibres.  It is equal to 3.56 quintals of lint cotton. It is unit for sale of cotton in India in the most of the States.

Q-Which are the cotton growing States in India?

A-In India, cotton is grown in 9 major cotton growing States . These states are Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan in Northern India, Gujarat, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh in Central Central India and Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu in Southern India. The cotton is also harvested in Orissa.

Q-Which State produce the more cotton?
A-Gujarat is the leading cotton growing State followed by Maharashtra.

Q-Which State has the largest area under cotton crops?

A-Maharashtra has the largest area under cotton cultivation followed by Gujarat.



Q-When the cotton is planted in India?

A-In the irrigated areas of Northern India cotton planting gets started  from middle of April and gets finished till last week of May. In Central India and Southern India, planting gets started  from the beginning of June - July end depending upon the arrival of monsoon and continue till August. In Tamil Nadu (Southern India) planting for summer crop is taken up in Jan-Feb and for winter in June-July.

Q - How many types of cotton is grown in India?
A-India has the advantage of growing all vsrieties of cotton i.e. from short staple 20mm & below, medium staple (20.5 to 24.5mm), medium long (25.0 to 27.0mm), long (27.5 to 32.0mm) and extra long staple cottons (32.5mm and above).


Q-What is the contract farming?
A- A  contract farming is an integrated cotton cultivation, which brings all the stakeholders of cotton on one platform.

Q-What are the advantages of contract farming?
A- The contract farming helps cotton farmers in increasing their yields through reduction of cost of production.  It also assures supply of improved cotton quality to spinners at the same time.

                                 The end

Please share this article with your friends if you find this information useful for you.

Thanks
.

Thursday, July 25, 2019

VARIETIES OF WOOL FIBRES,TYPES OF WOOL FIBRES

VARIETIES OF WOOL:
Different varieties of wool are given below:

Dead Wool:
The dead  wool is a variety of wool fibre. The fibres of dead wool show brittleness and coarseness. This variety of wool is used to produce many huge volume commercially available rugs.  This variety is often the refuse from combing out finer, longer stapled wool.

New Zealand Wool:

New Zealand wool is has longer staple length. It has softer feel.  This kind of soft feeling is due in part to both the altitude and vegetation available to herds.  It is common for a rug to have a blend of New Zealand and local wool to reduce the influence of the investment of import and material cost.

Gazni Wool:

“This wool is obtained from the sheep grazing in the high mountains  areas of Afghanistan”.  This wool shows soft feel. It remains in its shape when pressed little bit. Gazni wool is very slippery (almost oily sides). This is because of the method in which the wool has been treated. This wool has crunchy and strong feel after clipping of the pile.

Semi-Worsted Wool:

“Semi-Worsted wool is a very solid quality wool. It is recovered from wool by the process of combing”. when the wool passes through combing process,  the short fibres are eliminated from it. Now the longer and finer fibres remain in this wool after coming.
“The term Semi-Worsted wool refers to a wool which has been produced by one of two methods,
1 - The very high grade wool is obtained after getting it by removing short and coarse fibres from low and medium quality wool.
2- The highest quality wool which is obtained from low grade wool after combing and then is blended with a medium grade wool”.
Worsted wool refers to a process (and product) of combing excellent quality wool from high, medium and lower grade (determined by length, or staple) . “After wool has been combed, the finest, longer strands of wool are Worsted”.

Qurk / Kork Wool:

“This type of  wool is sheared from the neck, belly and under arms of the sheeps”. Since  this type of wool is very fine and It has long staple fibres, therefore this wool is found the most suitable for fine quality fabrics. The appearance of fairly untreated Qurk wool has almost a dull finish. It is dence feeling pile,very compact and firm. This is often considered as most choice of wool to come from the sheep. 

Pashmina Wool:

Pashmina wool is gotten from the coat of the goat grazing in himilayan areas. This type of wool is looked very silky and has silky feel too. It has long staple fibres. It is  very unusual to come across in exported weavings from rug producing countries.  “Pashmina wool is very soft and very expensive”.

Manchester Wool:

 “Manchester wool is obtained from a specific type of sheep variety called the Merino sheep”.  In the example of the Manchester kashan rugs and carpets, these are rugs which executed the use of the Merino wool originating from Australia.  The processing of this wool into yarn used in weaving done in Manchester England, and finally, this yarn exported to Iran for weaving.  The Manchester Kashan is a very unique variety of Kashan, with a naturally high luster, and long staple fibre.

Mohair:

“Mohair is gotten from the Angora Goat”.  Mohair is often very fine. It is  long staple fibre wool. This type of wool has appearance and feel like silk. Mohair is a very expensive and hard to come by fibres to be used in production of Oriental Rugs.  
Camel Hair Wool:

Camel hair was generally executed in many weavings such as Serab and other rugs.
Chemically Washed Wool Rugs. This is chemically treated wool. “Softness and lusture is improved by chemical treatment”. These chemical treatments are used with negligible effect on wool fibres.      

   You may also be interested in following articles:






You may also be interested in below sponsored links:        

Tuesday, July 23, 2019

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF WOOL FIBRE, CHEMICAL FORMULA OF WOOL, PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL

     
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF WOOL FIBRE :

The chemical composition of wool fibre is given below:


Chemical Composition of Keratin:
The chemical composition of keratin is given below:



Chemical composition chart of wool fibre:




CHEMICAL FORMULA(STRUCTURE) OF WOOL FIBRE:
The chemical formula of wool fibre is given below:

The wool fibre is composed of a particular protein, this protein is known as “keratin”. This keratin  consists of long polypeptide chains. The polypeptide chains has  eighteen different amino acids. The most of these amino acids have the general formula H2N.CHR.COOH. In this formula R is a side chain of varying character. The structure of polypeptide chain is given below:



And at intervals bridges derived from the amino acid cystine connect the chains. Some of the side chains end in amino groups and others in carboxyl groups. Internal  salts are therefore formed and the

Molecules are bound together by electrovalent linkages. The molecules of keratin are very large, with and average molecular weight estimated at about 60,000.

      PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL FIBRE:

 The cellular structure of wool fibre is given below:

Cuticle: 

“On the outside of the wool fibre is a protective layer of scales called cuticle cells”. They overlap like tiles on a roof. The exposed edges of the cells face away from the root end so there’s more friction when we rub the fibre in one direction than the other. This helps wool expel dirt and gives it the ability to felt. “Wool felts when fibres are aligned in opposite directions and they become entangled”.
The scales have a waxy coating chemically bound to the surface. This stops water penetrating the fibre but allows absorption of water vapour. “This makes wool water-repellent and resistant to water-based stains”.

Cortex:

The internal cell is called cortex. Almost ninety percent of the fibre is made of it. Two types of internal cells present in the fibre. One is ortho-cortical andother is  para-cortical. Each has a different type of chemical composition. In the finer fibres, these two types of cells form in two distinct halves. The cells expand differently when they absorb water and make the fibre bend. This creates the crimp in wool. In coarser fibres, the para-cortical and ortho-cortical cells form more randomly so there’s less crimp.
“Fibre crimp makes wool feel springy and provides insulation by trapping air”.

Cortical cell:

The cortical cells are surrounded and held together by a cell membrane complex and acting similarly to mortar holding bricks together in a wall.
The cell membrane complex is composed of proteins and waxy lipids,it runs through the whole fibre. The molecules in this area have fairly weak intermolecular bonds. These bonds can break down when exposed to continued abrasion and strong chemicals.The cell membrane complex allows easy uptake of dye molecules.

Macrofibril:

“The long filaments present inside the cortical cell are known as macrofibrils”. These consist of bundles of even finer filaments called microfibrils. They are surrounded by a matrix region.

Matrix:

The matrix is composed of sulphur proteins.These sulphur proteins improve  absorbency of wool because sulphur atoms attract water molecules. Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water. This region also play important role to make wool fibre more fire-resistant and anti-static properties.

Microfibril:

Within the matrix region, there are embedded smaller units called microfibrils. The microfibrils in the matrix are rather similar to steel bars embedded in reinforced concrete to give strength and flexibility. The microfibrils have couples of twisted molecular chains. Protein chains are coiled in a helical shape like a spring. These protein chains construt twisted molecular chains. This structure is stiffened by hydrogen bonds and disulphide bonds within the protein chain. They link each coil of the helix, helping to prevent it stretching. The helical coil is the smallest part of the fibre. It gives flexibility, elasticity and resilience to wool which helps wool fabric to keep its shape unchanged and remain wrinkle-free in use.

Saturday, July 20, 2019

TEXTILE FIBRE CLASSIFICATION CHART AND VARIOUS TYPES OF TEXTILE FIBRES

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES:
Textile fibres can be classified in the following main categories:
Natural fibres.
Man-made fibres.
Re-generated fibres.

NATURAL FIBRES:
“textile fibres directly obtained from nature are called natural fibres”. These fibres can not be produced by any type of chemical process. Natural fibres further can be classified into two categories according to their source of generation.
1-animal fibres: wool, silk spider silk, rabbit hairs, camel hairs, goat hairs, yak.
2-vegetable fibres: cotton,linen,jute,hemp,banana,kopok,kenaf,remie,raffia,sisal,coir,etc.

MAN-MADE FIBRES OR SYNTHETIC FIBRES:
“Textile fibres produced by humans through one or more types of chemical process are called man-made or synthetic fibres”. These fibres are produced in laboratories and in industrial manufacturing units. These fibres are produced by the polymerization of a monomer of chemical compounds. Few common examples are polyester,nylon,acrylic,polypropylene,elastane, polyvinyl acetate,polyvinyl alcohol,polyvinyl chloride,polythene,poly urethane etc.

RE-GENERATED FIBRES:

These fibres can neither directly found from nature nor can be produced by using chemicals. “these fibres are re-generated from natural material using some chemical process”. Monomers are obtained by treating natural materials with chemicals. common examples are rayon, bamboo fibres, modal, lyocell etc.

CLASSIFICATION CHART OF TEXTILE FIBRES:



                Please click on the below video link to watch the full article in Hindi:

 

                  

Wednesday, July 17, 2019

GRADING OF COTTON FIBRES

GRADING OF COTTON FIBRES:


 Today, in the age of globalization textile industry is very competitive and cost effective. Quality of of cotton fibres needs upto standard marks. It is necessary to maintain the product quality to be stayed in tough industrial competition.
Grading of cotton is carried out according to various parameters. Our cotton can not fetch reasonable price Without quality assurance.
Cotton fibres grading is done mainly for following quality parameters:
Mean fibre length
After ginning the mean fibre length is determined. This length is measured in millimeter (mm) or in inch. Mean fibre length is classified as follows
                 

Span length
Examination of 20.5% span length and 50% span length are carried out by using digital fibrograph. It is internationally accepted parameter of fibre length of cotton. It is measured in milimeter or inches. 2.5% span length is classified as follows:

Classification of 2.5% span length

Fibre fineness

Fibre fineness is weight per unit length of fibre. Per unit length weight and fibre fineness of fibre are inversely propotional to each other. Fineness of fibre is classified on the bases of micronaire(Microgrammes/inch)
                          Gradding of fibre fineness


Fibre tenacity

Tenacity of fibre shows the strength of it. The standard unit of tenacity is grammes/tex. Its gradding is carried out as follows:
Fibre maturity-coefficient
Fibre maturity depends on the development of cotton. Maturity of fibre is determined with the help of compound microscope. On a slide 100-200 fibre are taken and wet by solution of 18% caustic soda and maturity co-efficient is determined. Classification of maturity co-efficient is done as follows:


Uniformity Ratio

This characteristic denotes the uniformity of fibre length of a cotton. Uniformity ratio of cotton fibre is ratio of 50% span length to 2.5% span length expressed in term of percentage.. Classification of uniformity ratio as follows:

Colour appearance of cotton

Classification of cotton colour is based on the  yellow colour present in cotton. In India according to colour cotton is classified as follows:
White
Gray
Pearly
Brownish
Creamy

Grades of indian cotton
Indian cotton is classified in following grades:
Extra superfine
Superfine
Fine
Fully good
Good
Fully good fair

                                    The end

Please share this article with your friends if you find this information useful for you.

Thanks

Tuesday, July 16, 2019

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF COTTON FIBRE, CHEMICAL FORMULA OF COTTON FIBRE, CROSS SECTIONAL VIEW OF THE COTTON FIBRE

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF COTTON FIBRES:
The chemical composition of any textile fibre is very important. Processing any textile fibre is not possible without knowing its chemical composition. Every fibre is composed of some elements. These elements decide the characteristics of the fibre. The cotton fibre is mainly composed of cellulose. Other elements present in this are impurities. The composition of cotton fibre is given below table:

                                                                   



CHEMICAL STRUCTURE AND FORMULA OF COTTON FIBRE:



Cellulose Chemistry
After scouring and bleaching, cotton has near about 99% cellulose. Cellulose is a macromolecule. It is a polymer made up of a long chain of glucose molecules linked by C-1 to C-4 oxygen bridges with the elimination of water (glycoside bonds). The anhydroglucose units are linked together as beta-cellobiose; therefore, anhydrous-beta-cellobiose is the repeating unit of the polymer chain. “The number of repeat units linked together to form the cellulose polymer is referred to as the degree of polymerization”.
Wood pulp, rayon and cellophane (all three re-generated from wood cellulose) are also composed of cellulose polymers. “Cotton cellulose differs from wood cellulose primarily by having a higher degree of polymerization and crystallinity”. Crystallinity indicates that the fibre molecules are closely packed and parallel to one another.


Chemical structure of cotton
The cellulose chains within cotton fibres tend to be held in place by hydrogen bonding. These hydrogen bonds occur between the hydroxyl groups of adjacent molecules and are most prevalent between the parallel, closely packed molecules in the crystalline areas of the fibre.
The three hydroxyl groups, one primary and two secondary, in each repeating cellobiose unit of cellulose are chemically reactive. These groups can undergo substitution reactions in procedures designed to modify the cellulose fibres or in the application of dyes and finishes for crosslinking. The hydroxyl groups also serve as principal sorption sites for water molecules. “Directly sorbed water is firmly chemisorbed on the cellulosic hydroxyl groups by hydrogen bonding”.
“The strength of cotton generally increases with increased moisture. This difference among fibres in their response to moisture is explained in terms of intermolecular hydrogen bonding between cellulose chains and their degree of crystallinity.”
Thermoplastic fibres melt at elevated temperatures and have a glass transition temperature at some point below the polymer’s melting point. “At the glass transition temperature, a thermoplastic fibre becomes brittle and loses its elasticity”. Cotton is not a thermoplastic fibre; therefore, it has no glass transition temperature and remains flexible even at very low temperatures. At elevated temperatures, cotton decomposes instead of melting. Long exposure to dry heat above 300°F (149°C) causes cotton fibres to decompose gradually, and temperatures above 475°F (246°C) cause rapid deterioration.

CROSS-SECTIONAL VIEW AND PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF COTTON FIBRE:

The “cuticle” is the outer waxy layer, which contains pectins and proteinaceous materials. It serves as a smooth, water-resistant coating, which protects the fibre. This layer is removed from the fibre by scouring.
The “primary wall” is the original thin cell wall. Mainly cellulose is made up of a network of fine fibrils (small strands of cellulose). This makes for a well-organized system of continuous, very fine capillaries. It is well known that fine capillaries rob liquids from coarse capillaries. “The fine surface capillaries of each cotton fibre contribute greatly to cotton’s wipe-dry performance”.
The “winding layer” (also called the S1 layer) is the first layer of secondary thickening. It differs in structure from both the primary wall and the remainder of the secondary wall. “It consists of fibrils aligned at 40 to 70-degree angles to the fibre axis in an open netting type of pattern”.
The “secondary wall” (also called the S2 layer) consists of concentric layers of cellulose, “which constitute the main portion of the cotton fibre”. After the fibre has attained its maximum diameter, new layers of cellulose are added to form the secondary wall. The fibrils are deposited at 70 to 80-degree angles to the fibre axis, reversing the angle at points along the length of the fibre. The fibrils are packed close together, again, forming small capillaries.
The “lumen wall” (also called the S3 layer) separates the secondary wall from the lumen and appears to be more resistant to certain reagents than the secondary wall layers.





Mature cotton fibre has the following six parts.
The “lumen” is the hollow canal that runs the length of the fibre. It is filled with living protoplast during the growth period. After the fibre matures and the boll opens, the protoplast dries up, and the lumen naturally collapses, leaving a central void, or pore space, in each fibre.
The figure shows a schematic structure of the mature cotton fibre, identifying its six parts.
Throughout the fibre structure, there are variously sized pores or capillary spaces between the variously sized fibrils in each of the six fibre parts. Thus, the cotton fibre can be viewed as a microscopic physical sponge with a complex porous structure. This internal structure makes cotton fibres accessible to liquids and vapours. The capillary action of the fibrils pulls liquid in, where it is held in pores between the fibrils. This structure accounts for cotton’s wickability and unique absorbing capacity.
The cotton fibre, when observed in its entirety, is a flat, twisted ribbon, with 50 to 100 convolutions per inch. The fibre is tapered on one end and fibrillated on the other, where it was joined to the cottonseed. This provides the fibre with a soft
touch or feel, because it has no sharply cut ends, as do synthetic staple fibres.

Monday, July 15, 2019

GINNING OF COTTON FIBRES, POST GINNING TREATMENT

GINNING OF COTTON FIBRES:

What is the main object of ginning? How cotton is ginned? As we know that cotton fibres obtained directly from farms have cotton seeds and many other impurities like dirt, dust and plant left with them. Therefore it is necessary to make cotton fibres free from these impurities. Ginning is the first effort to make cotton fibres free from impurities. “Ginning is a process of separation of cotton fibres from cotton seeds”. The main object of ginning is to remove the cotton fibres from cotton seeds. Secondary dirt, dust and leaves are also removed during ginning. Now, this day ginning of cotton is performed by different types of machines available.

 WORKING OF GINNING MCHINE:


The working of a ginning machine can be described in the following steps:

Feeding system.

Drying system.

Opening system.

Cleaning system.

Seeds separation system.

Lints collection.


Cotton feeding system:       In the old type of ginning machines cotton arriving in the trailer is fed into the gin through a lattice. Cotton is put onto the lattice. When lattice rotates, it carries the cotton forward with it. The lattice is made of wooden stripes. Cotton is fed in the hopper. Cotton falls onto the lattice automatically due to its gravity. In modern machines, the cotton is directly sucked through a large air suction pipe and is sent into gin. The diameter is of this suction pipe is nearly equal to 16”.

Drying system:    Moist cotton creates difficulties during the opening, cleaning and seed separating action, so that it demands to remove excess amount of moisture. Due to excess water content cotton fibres grip strongly the cotton seeds. Cotton fibres are passed through the dryer and an extra amount of moisture is removed up to the maximum extent. Now cotton is ready for opening and cleaning.

Opening system: when cotton passes through rotating spikes and saw rollers, modules are broken. In modern machines, modules are broken by suction pipes.

Cleaning system:  Cotton now passes through the cleaning cylinder. This cleaning cylinder has six to seven rotating, spiked rollers. These rollers break clumps of cotton. Foreign material leaves, dust remove here and passes through rods or screens for removal. The stick machine uses centrifugal force to remove larger foreign matter such as sticks and burrs while the cotton is held by a fast revolving saw cylinder.

Seed separation system:   The gin stand uses the teeth of rotating saws to pull the cotton through a series of ginning ribs, which pull the fibres from the seeds which are too large to pass through the ribs. The cleaned seed is then removed from the gin via an “auger system”. The seed is reused for planting or is sent to an oil mill to be further processed into cottonseed oil and cottonseed meal.

Cotton lints collection system:    The lint cleaners again use “saws and grid bars”, this time to separate “immature seeds” and any remaining foreign matter from the fibres. The bale press then compresses the cotton into bales for storage and shipping. Modern gins can process up to 15 tonnes (33,000 lb) of cotton per hour.

POST GINNING TREATMENT( BALE FORMATION OF COTTON FIBRES):

After ginning cotton lints are ready to send to market. Since cotton fibre has low specific gravity so that it covers more volume and difficulties are faced during shipping and transportation. Compact packing of cotton is done to minimise the volume. Cotton lints are compressed through a hydraulic press. The compact and desired shape of the cotton bale is obtained. Each bale has 500 lbs. weight. compressed bales are banded and wrapped. Moisture resistant wrapping of the cotton bale is done. Cotton or polypropylene may be used for wrapping, which maintains the proper moisture content of cotton. Proper and good wrapping also helps to keep bales clean during handling, storage and transportation. The particular identification number is given to each bale. “Now cotton is ready to send for marketing”.

 Please click on the below video link to watch the full article in Hindi:

   

                               

Sunday, July 14, 2019

COTTON FIBRE, HISTORY OF COTTON, HARVESTING OF COTTON

COTTON FIBRES:
Cotton fibre is most important fibre in the world. Cotton is life line of humans. “Its properties make it most useful for clothings”. Cotton is a vegetable fibre. It is grown all around the world. Cotton fibre has versetile uses in human life. Finest and heaviest quality textiles can be made of cotton. “It is bio-degradable material”. Its world wide availability makes it popular and cheaper among the people. It is widely used for clothings. “It has good moisture content and absorvancy”. It gives comfortable feelings during wearing of clothes.
HISTORY OF COTTON FIBRE:
It is not confirmed when human learnt to use cotton as clothings,how did he learn to use it as clothings. Some scientific searches show that “cotton bolls and pieces of cotton were found in caves in Mexico”. That proves that human is using cotton fibre since or before more than 7000 years. About 3000 BC cotton was being grown as crop in indus river valley in Pakistan. Same time” in Egypt people were wearing cotton clothings in nile river valley ”. Cotton reached in Europe in 800 AD through Arabian merchants. When Columbus reached in America in 1492 he saw crop of cotton in Bahama island.
“First cotton yarn was spun by machinery in England in1730”.

IMPORTANCE OF COTTON FIBRE IN WORLD ECONOMY AND HUMAN LIFE:
Cotton plays very important role in world economy. Today cotton industry is a very large industry in the world. Cotton industry creats millions of employments oppurtunities for people. Transportation of cotton from farms and processing of clothing further generates revenue,employments and business opportunities for people. Many engineering and chemical industries are required for spinning,weaving,processing and tailoring of cotton clothings. Lot of skilled and technically qualified prpfessionals are required in cotton industry so that cotton industry also gives employment activities and opportunities to educational institutions. There are many uses of cotton in various forms, so it generates business and service activities in various fields. Cotton fibre provides big and important source of income to farmers. Cotton is known as cash crop in the world . In many parts of world it is only source of income for farmers.
Cotton fibre is a part of our daily lives. Our life style directly linked with cotton fibre. Today we can not imagine our life without cotton. Its uses make it part of life of human. “How important cotton fibre is in our lives,it can be seen and understand by its presence in every house ,office, industries,institutions,agriculture,medicals etc”. People love to wear cotton fibre clothing  .Home furnishing (bedsheets, pillows, cushions,quilts,curtains,handkerchief,towel,table cover,car seating,blanket,bath mat,door mat,carpet,floor covering and many more).
Apart from fibres or lints other parts of cotton plant are also used in various product. “Cotton seeds are being used as animal feeding from very old period”. Oil from cotton seeds is separated which is used in various uses. “Leaves of plants are left in the field which make the soil enrich and improves fertility of soil”. Its stem is used to produce energy as a fuel. Cotton is useful for human from all and every angle to the world economy.

FARMING OF COTTON FIBRES:
“Cotton is grown in warm and humid climates”. Following steps are adopted to grow the cotton crop
Soil preparation:
To prepare the farm soil is very important job in growing the cotton. “The farmers who use conventional process to prepare the soil, they cut down and chop the cotton stalk after harvesting the cotton crop”. Now remaining residue of cotton stalk is turned dowm just below the soil surface. In other type of soil preparation the stalks are left standing and leave the plant residue on the surface of the soil. “These stalks and plant residue make soil enrich after bio-degradation”. Fertility of soil improves. Farmers plow the land into rows forming firm seed-bed for planting.

Seeding:
Seeding is done with mechanical planters which ver as many as 10 to 24 rows at a time. The planter opens a small trench or furrow in each row, drops in the right amount of seeds, covers them and packs the earth on top of them. The seeds are planted at equal distance in either small group of plant or singularly (drilled). Machines called cultivators are used to pull out weeds and grass from soil which is harmfull for plant. These weeds and grass can take fertilizers,sunlight and water surrounding the plants.
Square appearing:
After two months of planting, flower buds(flowerlet) called squares begin to appear on the cotton plants. About in next  three to four weeks, the flowers open. The petals(each of the segments of the corolla of a flower, which are modified leaves and are typically coloured) of flowers are change from creamy white colour into yellow, then pink and finally dark red.  Three days later, petals become dry and fall in the farm. Now only green seed vessels remain on the plants which are called cotton bolls(a rounded seed capsule).

Development of cotton bolls:

Round seed capsules are begun to change into cotton bolls. Slowly the size of cotton boll increases.  Cotton boll now looks like a small spungy ball. Moist fibres grow inside the boll and push out from the newly developed seeds. Now cotton bolls begin to ripe. Its colour changes into brown. The fibres continue to expand under warm conditions. Atlast the boll is opened and it divided into many parts. Now fluffy cotton fibres come out. It looks like a white cotton candy.
Harvesting of cotton:

“Harvesting of cotton crop is done manually and by modern machines both”. In india where manual labour is still cheaper than other places, farmers pick seed cotton by hand. It is then collected and dumped at one place. In developed countries like USA harvesting of cotton is performed by harvesting machines known as picker or stripper. Picking machine has spindles. These spindles pick(twist)  the seed cotton from the burrs that are attached to plants stems. Doffers then remove the seed cotton from the spindles and knock the seed cotton into the conveying system.Conventional cotton stripping machines use rollers equipped with alternating bats and brushes to knock the open bolls from the plants into a conveyor.A second kind of stripper harvester uses a broadcast attachment that looks similar to a grain header on a combine. All harvesting systems use air to convey and elevate the seed cotton into a storage bin referred to as a basket. Once the basket is full, the stored seed cotton is dumped into a boll buggy, trailer or module builder.


                                  THE END

Friday, July 12, 2019

SIZING PROCESS, OBJECT OF SIZING, PRECAUTIONS OF SIZING, PROCESS CONTROL IN SIZING

Please click on the below link to read this complete article in Hindi:




SIZING PROCESS:

The sizing is a preparatory process of weaving that comes after warping. It is a very important and critical preparatory process. “The process of application of a thin film of adhesive and binder on the yarn surface to improve the weavability of yarn is called sizing process”. It is essential for weaving the fabric with single-ply spun yarn. The quality of the sizing process directly influences the performance of the loom and the quality of the fabric to be woven. "The people say that sizing is the heart of weaving". In this process, the warp sheet gets immersed in the paste of adhesive and binder, then the warp is squeezed properly to eliminate the excess amount of adhesive. Now the warp is dried and the ends are separated from each other. Now the warp ends are wound on the weaver’s beam. The strength of warp yarn is increased after the sizing process. The hairiness of yarn gets reduced too. During the sizing process, warp yarn passes under moderate tension. This tension causes some stretch in the yarn, thus elongation of yarn after sizing gets reduced. This is a negative aspect of the sizing process. Many types of sizing agents are used in the sizing process to improve various properties of the yarn. This process is carried out carefully and precisely. Improper and poor sizing results from many difficulties in weaving. An excess amount of sizing also creates difficulties. The amount of size pick-up is applied according to the yarn parameters used in warp yarn. The selection of correct sizing ingredients plays a major role in the quality performance of sizing. Better process control and quality control in sizing always result in the form of the best performance of the sizing process. 

OBJECT OF SIZING PROCESS:

 The main objective of the sizing process is given below:

To improve the weavability of warp yarn.

To improve the fibre to fibre adhesion force in the yarn.

To prevent slippage of fibres in the yarn during weaving.

To make the yarn twist permanent by applying adhesive film on the yarn surface. The twist in unsized yarn tends to untwist due to rolling action during weaving so that it necessitates to be fixed.

To strengthen the warp yarn.

To improve the abrasion resistance of warp yarn.

To protect the yarn from being ruptured during passing through drop pin, the eye of heald wire and dent of reed.

To reduce the hairiness of warp yarn.

To improve the smoothness of warp yarn.

To ensure good fabric quality in weaving.

To ensure maximum efficiency of the weaving process.

To prevent the development of electrostatic charges in the yarn during weaving.

BASIC REQUIREMENTS OF SIZING PROCESS:

The basic requirements of the sizing process are given below:

The film of adhesive should be as flexible as possible.

The loss of elongation at the break of yarn should be as minimum as possible.

The adhesive film should not be cracked due to abrasion during weaving.

Moisture content of warp should be properly maintained.

There should be a minimum sticking end in the sized beam.

It should be ensured that sizing liquor penetrates the yarn. It should not coat only the surface of the yarn.

Stretch percentage should be minimum to control the loss of elongation at break.

Size pick-up should be proper to reduce warp breakages in the weaving.

Size pick-up below the required amount and excess amount is always dangerous in sizing. These factors should be controlled necessarily.

All the beams should have equal tension during sizing to obtain uniform tension in the sized beam.

Adhesive film should be smooth.

There should be no yarn rupture during the process.

Hairiness should be reduced.

Beam winding tension should be proper.

There should be minimum short ends in the sizing beam.

The warp ends should be equally distributed across the beam width by using the correct denting order.


SIZING INGREDIENTS:

The chemicals to be used in the preparation of sizing liquor is called sizing ingredients. Sizing ingredients may be classified into two categories:

Primary sizing ingredients

Secondary sizing ingredients

Primary sizing ingredients: 

the names and their roles of primary sizing ingredients are given below:

Adhesive agent: 

The main role of an adhesive agent in the sizing liquor is to form a thin layer (film) on the yarn surface. It is a very important ingredient. A major portion of sizing liquor consists of adhesive agents. It penetrates inside the yarn and increases the yarn strength. The protruding fibres also bind with the yarn surface and help to increase yarn strength. The hairiness of the yarn reduces too. Film on the yarn surface improves the abrasion resistance and smoothness of warp yarn. Now, these days following types of adhesive agents are used in the sizing process.

Simple starch:

this is untreated starch powder. Mainly maize starch, sago starch, wheat starch, potato starch are used as adhesive agents in sizing. The viscosity of sizing liquor with untreated starch is always high. It gives poor penetration in the warp yarn. This starch is suitable for sizing a coarse count of yarn up to 20s count.
The viscosity of untreated starch can be improved by adding potassium persulphate in it and improved viscosity of liquor allows to use it in the sizing of a medium count of yarn. It gives the best performance in weaving with the medium speed of loom. This is cost-effective. It helps to control the sizing cost per kilogram of warp.

Thin boiling starch:

it is chemically treated starch. It has a lower viscosity than untreated starch. It easily penetrates the yarn. When warp count increases, the size pick-up percentage is also increased thus the concentration of liquor is also increases but the viscosity of liquor is kept almost the same by using thin boiling starch. It may be successfully used in the sizing of the medium count of warp yarn. It is a little expensive than untreated starch.

Modified starch:

it chemically modified starch. It has a very low viscosity. It gives the best penetration effect in the yarn. It is suitable for all types of yarn count. It can be used for sizing of warp of high-speed loom. Good quality of fabric results with this adhesive. Maximum efficiency can be achieved by using this adhesive. This is much expensive so that it is used in the sizing of a fine count of warp yarn only.

Binding agent:

It is used to make the adhesive film enough strong. The adhesive film has brittleness. When it passes through various kinds of abrasive actions and jerks during weaving, the adhesive film becomes cracked and end breakage results during weaving. The binding agent provides strength to the adhesive film and prevents becoming a crack. There are many types of binding agents that are being used in sizing at present time. The widely using binding agents in today’s sizing are given below:

Guar gum

Carboxymethylcellulose (C.M.C.)

Polyvinyl alcohol (P.V.A.)

Polyester binder(R- bind, bilbind PS, eco size)

Acrylic binder (rainscel)

Above binding agents are used individually or within combination according to requirement, quality and the warp count is always taken into consideration before the selection of binding agents.

Softening agent:

It is used to make the adhesive film more soft and flexible. As we know that the warp yarn passes through different angles so that the adhesive film becomes cracked due to the bending movement of the yarn. This problem necessitates that the adhesive film should be soft and flexible. The softening agent provides enough softness to the adhesive film. It also makes the yarn surface smooth. Following types of softening agents are used now these days:

Vegetable fats (dalda, refined oil)

Animal fats (mutton tallow)

Synthetic softener (R-soft, textile wax)

A little amount of softener is used in the sizing liquor. It does not affect the cost of the sizing process on many scales.

SECONDARY SIZING INGREDIENTS:

The secondary sizing ingredients of sizing agents are given below:

Antistatic agent:

It prevents the generation of electrostatic charge in the warp yarn during weaving. When the warp makes up and down movement during weaving, the ends rub to each other and generate an electrostatic charge in the warp. These electrostatic charges cause warp breakage during weaving. A very little amount of antistatic agent is used in the sizing liquor. The types of antistatic agents are given below:

Sepcostate

LV-40

PAA-40

Antiseptic agent:

It is used to prevent bacteria or mildew formation in the sized beam or fabric woven from a sized warp. When the sized warp or fabric remains unused, there are chances of bacteria or mildew formation in humid conditions or rainy seasons. Some antiseptic agent is added to the sizing liquor to avoid this problem.

Salicylic acid

Zinc chloride

Phenol

Emulsifier

Copper sulphate

Hygroscopic agent:

The main role of the hygroscopic agent in the sizing liquor is to improve the moisture absorption capacity of warp from the air. Since we know that the strength of cotton increases by increasing moisture percentage when the warp absorbs the moisture during weaving, the warp breakage rate is reduced. The majorly using hygroscopic agents are given below:

French chock

China clay 

BASIC REQUIREMENT OF SIZING INGREDIENTS:

The basic requirements of sizing ingredients are given below:

It should be that which gives the least exfoliation.

It should be easily washable i.e. permits easy desizing.

It should give good fabric characteristics.

It should be compatible with the machinery & associated parts.

It should not cause any degradation of the textile material.

It should not cause any health hazard.

It should be cheap.

Size ingredients should be neutral.

It should be available. 

STRUCTURE AND WORKING OF SIZING MACHINE:



The common parts and working of sizing machine are given below:

Creel

Sow box

Liquor circulation system

Drying unit

Yarn separator and its platform

Headstock

Adjustable reed

Beam winding system

Beam pressing system

Drive

PIV boxes

Control panel

Automatic speed and moisture control system

Length measuring system

Stretch control system

Cooking unit

Liquor storage

Warper's beam creel:

Creel is a very important portion of the sizing machine. The warper’s beams are mounted on the creel. The beam mounting capacity of the creel depends upon the total number of ends required in the weaver’s beam. Each beam rotates in between two rollers nips. The rollers are able to move freely.

A braking system is attached to each pair of rollers. Beam tension is adjusted by loosening or tightening the handwheel. The alignment of the beam is also done with help of this handwheel. The yarn guiding rollers are fitted in the creel which guides the warp of each beam. Zigzag or vertical creel is used in the sizing machine. Zigzag creel occupies more space than vertical creel. 

Sow box:

It is the most critical and important portion of the sizing machine. Mainly it is responsible for size pick-up percentage in the warp during. The common parts and function of a sow box are given below:


Stainless steel tub:

the sow box has a stainless steel tub. The sizing liquor is filled in this tub.

Guide roller: 

it is mounted just before the immersion rollers, it guides the warp sheet during the process.

Immersion rollers:

the warp sheet passes under the immersion rollers. Two pairs of immersion rollers are used in a sow box, immersion rollers help to immerse the warp sheet into the sizing liquor. The warp sheet first passes under one pair of immersion rollers then between the nip of stainless steel and squeezing rollers. Now warp sheet again passes under another pair of immersion rollers and finally warp sheet passes between the nip of other stainless steel and squeezing rollers.
Stainless steel rollers: There are two stainless steel rollers in a sow box. Its function is to lift sizing liquor and to apply it on the yarn surface. When a very low amount of size pick-up needs, only stainless steel rollers are used to apply the sizing liquor on the yarn surface. The yarn is not immersed into the sizing liquor in case of a very low size pick-up.

Squeezing rollers:

When the warp immerses into the sizing liquor, it has an excess amount of sizing liquor with it. There is a need to eliminate this excess amount of sizing liquor from the warp. The warp coming out of immersion rollers passes between the nips of the squeezing roller, which is mounted just over the stainless steel roller. Two squeezing rollers are used in a sow box. The squeezing roller applies the pressure on the warp sheet and eliminates the excess amount of sizing liquor from it.

Perforated steam pipe:

This is mounted in the circulation box or tub. It is perforated and connected to the steam line. The main function of this perforated steam pipe is to maintain the temperature of sizing liquor in the sow box. A steam valve is fitted in the steam line which regulates the temperature of the sow box.

Pneumatic cylinders:

The pneumatic cylinders are fitted at both ends of squeezing rollers. These cylinders perform up and down movement of squeezing rollers. The squeezing pressure is maintained by these cylinders. The compressed air is supplied continuously to these pneumatic cylinders.

Pressure gauge:

A pressure gauge is fitted between the pneumatic cylinders and the air supply line. This pressure gauge reads the pressure during the process.
Pressure regulator:

An air pressure regulator is used to control the squeezing pressure. By rotating the air regulator valve the squeezing can be increased or decreased according to requirement.

Temperature sensor:

The temperature sensor is immersed in the sizing liquor. This sensor senses the liquor temperature and sends the signal to the control panel.

Liquor circulation system:

The main function is to perform the mixing of sizing liquor in the sow box and to prevent the formation of a thick layer of sizing liquor in the sow box.


The circulation system mainly consists of a geared feeding pump. When the tub of sow box is filled with sizing liquor, it begins to fall into the circulation box. The liquor from here passes into the inlet of the feeding pump. The outlet of the pump is connected to a sow box. The feeding pump continuously circulates the sizing liquor.

Drying unit and steam supply:

The main function of the drying unit is to dry the warp sheet after coming out of squeezing rollers. The Teflon coated steam cylinders are used in the drying unit. The steam is supplied to the drying cylinders which helps to heat the cylinder. When the wet warp sheet passes over the heated surface of drying cylinders, the moisture present in the warp sheet is evaporated from it and the warp sheet becomes dry. A main steam supply valve located in the main steam line can start or stop the supply of steam in the whole drying unit. In the sizing machine,


some drying cylinders are driven negatively. These cylinders are revolved due to warp tension over the cylinder. The last three or four cylinders are driven positively. A steam trip is mounted on each cylinder which releases an excess amount of steam pressure. The steam valve fitted with each cylinder regulates steam pressure in the cylinder. The temperature sensors fitted with each cylinder reads the temperature of the cylinder and send the signal to the control panel.

Yarn separator and its platform:

After the drying unit, a long platform is fitted just before the headstock of the machine. The yarn separator brackets are mounted on this platform. The yarn separators are kept on these brackets. The main function of the yarn separator is to separate the ends from each other. When the dry warp sheet


comes out from the drying unit, the ends are stuck to each other. The yarn separators are inserted into the warp sheet in a definite sequence. The number of yarn separators depends upon the number of warper’s beams to be used. The number of yarn separators is always one short of a number of warper’s beams. The yarn separators are fixed on their brackets. The warp sheet moves toward the headstock of the machine. This movement of the warp sheet helps to separate the ends from each other.

Headstock:

This portion of the machine is located at the last of the machine. It consists of a drag roller, which is rubber-coated. It drags the warp sheet. There are two pressure rollers used to provide sufficient grip of the drag roller on the warp. The warp sheet first passes over the pressure roller, then it is passed under the drag roller.


 The warp sheet again passes over another pressure roller. The pressure of these rollers is controlled by pneumatic cylinders. These cylinders also help to lift upward the pressure rollers. A metallic cover is mounted over the drag rollers which prevents to fall off any foreign material between the pressure roller and the drag roller. A protection grid is mounted just in front of the drag roller which protects the operator’s hand.

Adjustable reed:

This reed is mounted just before the first pressure roller of the headstock. This is a zigzag reed. It fixes the number of ends per inch in the weaver’s beam. This is an adjustable reed. Its width can be increased or reduced within the tolerance limit. A mechanism attached to this reed performs the adjusting of the action of this reed.

 A handwheel is used to reduce or increase the reed width. The width can be adjusted by rotating the handwheel in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction. There is another mechanism attached with this reed that helps to move it left and right direction.

Beam winding system:

When the warp sheet comes out of the drag roller, it is wound on the weaver’s beam. The pins of beam adapters are inserted in the holes of the beam driving mechanism. The beam is driven from one side. A winding motor transmit motion to a reduction gearbox, which is connected to the beam driving shaft. The surface speed of the weaver’s beam is kept a little higher than that of the surface speed of the drag roller. This speed difference maintains the tension on the warp during beam winding.

Beam pressing system:

The beam pressing system mainly consists of a pair of pressure rollers, two pairs of conical rollers, an iron beam and a pneumatic cylinder. The pneumatic cylinder is mounted in the trench under the weaver’s beam. The piston of the pneumatic cylinder is connected to the iron beam. A pair of conical rollers are fitted at each side of the iron beam. These conical rollers move free on their pin and bearings. The beam pressing rollers mounted on these conical rollers. When a machine is in operation, the pneumatic cylinder lifts the pressure rollers. The pressure rollers touch the surface of the beam. When the air pressure in the pneumatic cylinder increases, the pressure rollers start to press the beam. The air pressure in the pneumatic cylinder is regulated by the air pressure regulator valve. The compactness of the beam is controlled by pressing rollers. It also levels the surface of the warp beam.  The pressure rollers perform other work of beam loading and unloading.

Drive:

An electric motor is used to drive the machine. This motor transmits the motion to the reduction gearbox. A vertical shaft is connected to the reduction gearbox. All the moving parts receive the motion through this shaft by means of chain sprocket and gears. In modern sizing machines, sow boxes, drying cylinders, drag rollers and beams are driven by individual motors. These motors are controlled by individual A.C. drive. The speeds of all the sections are synchronized accurately.

PIV gearboxes:

When the machine is driven by a vertical shaft, PIV gearboxes are used to vary the speed of different sections. PIV boxes synchronize the speeds of various sections to each other. The sow box, drying cylinder and drag rollers have PIV boxes to adjust their speeds. The PIV box consists of a chain, two pairs of variable diameter toothed pulleys and a diameter adjusting handwheel.


 The one flanged toothed pulleys connected to the gear transmission system and the other end is connected through a chain sprocket to the receiving device. When the diameter of driver pulleys is increased, the diameter of driven pulleys reduces simultaneously. Therefore the speed of the motion receiving device is increased. When the diameter of the driver is reduced, the speed of the motion receiving device is decreased. The diameter adjustment is achieved by rotating the handwheel.

Control panel:

It is the electrical panel that controls all the electrical operations of the machine. There are many electrical contactors, relays, and printed circuit boards used in this panel. These devices switch on and off the supply according to signals received from various sensors located at different parts of the machine.

Automatic speed and moisture control system:
This system is very important for the efficient and accurate working of the sizing machine. In this system moisture percentage to have remained in the sized warp, the sheet is fed in the system. The main steam valve is opened and the temperature of different drying cylinders is adjusted manually. When the machine is running continuously, the speed of the machine varies automatically according to the moisture percentage fixed in the system. The machine speed is lowered to keep the moisture percentage constant when the steam pressure is reduced. When the steam pressure increases, the speed of the machine also increases to keep the moisture percentage constant.

Length measuring system:

The machine is equipped with a digital length measuring meter. A metallic pin is mounted on the flange of the pressure roller of the headstock. This pin passes just in front of the proximity sensor during each rotation. Thus proximity sensor sends the signal of completion of each rotation of the pressure roller to the digital meter. The diameter of the pressure roller is fed into the digital meter. The digital meter converts the rotation into the metres. The required warp length can also be fed into the meter. When the required warp length reaches completion, the machine stops automatically. The operator cuts the beam and replaces it with a new one.

Stretch control system:

The ratio of difference of delivered length and feeding length to feeding length expressed in the term of percentage is called stretch percentage. The stretch percentage always appears in the display of the control panel. It ranges between 1 – 2 %. If it is not ranging between this limit, the tension between the sow box and drying cylinder, the tension between the drying cylinder and the drag roller is adjusted.
Cooking unit:

This is a vessel in which the sizing liquor is cooked. This is made of stainless steel and is capable to bear high pressure. A stirrer is fitted in the bottom of this vessel. This stirrer revolves with the help of an electric motor. An airtight door is mounted on the top of the vessel which is used to drop the sizing ingredients into this vessel. A water supply pipe is fitted in this cooking vessel to supply the water in the vessel.


 Steam is used to maintain the temperature in the vessel. A temperature meter and pressure gauge are fitted in this cooking vessel to reed temperature and cooking pressure. Normally the volume of the cooking vessel is 1000 litres. One inch height of the cooking vessel contains 20 litres of the volume of liquor.
  
Liquor storage:

A liquor storage vessel is used to store the cooking liquor. A stirrer is fitted to the vessel to stir the liquor. Steam supply maintains the liquor temperature.



PRECAUTIONS OF SIZING PROCESS:

Following precautions should be taken during the sizing process:
Tension on the beams should be as minimum as possible.
The alignment of beams should be done properly.
Temperature of sow box should be 80 – 85 degrees Celsius.
The condensation percentage of steam in the sow box should be determined. It should be as minimum as possible. High condensation percentage of steam can badly affect the refractometer value of sizing liquor and can dilute it.
The level of sizing liquor in the sow box should be proper to maintain the continuous circulation of liquor.
The viscosity of liquor should be as minimum as possible.
The temperature of the first cylinder should be higher and the last cylinder should be lower.
Water eliminator in the steam line of the sow box should always be used.
The squeezing pressure should be set properly to avoid an excessive amount of sizing liquor.
Stretch percentage should be as minimum as possible.
Moisture percentage in the sized warp sheet should be 8 – 9 % approx.
During the sizing process, the machine should not be stopped for a long time otherwise the sizing liquor marks may be created on the warp sheet which causes end breakage during the process.
Warp cover of 60 – 65 % in the warp sheet gives better sizing performance. If it is more than this value double sow box should be used in the machine.
Division of warp sheet into two parts before passes over the drying cylinder reduces end breakage in the sizing process.
The yarn separators should be inserted correctly and carefully. If it is inserted wrongly, the end breakage rate and sticking ends are increased badly.
The denting of ends should be done correctly, the cross ends in the dents of reed badly increase the end breakage rate.
The drag roller should be cleaned properly, any stone particle present on the surface of the drag roller can rupture the warp ends.
The operator should not sit on the top cover of the drag roller with shoes on their feet.
The operator should be used a table to reach the broken ends to repair them.
When the broken end is repaired, it should be put in the same dent where it was before breakage.
The beam winding tension should be proper. High tension causes end breakage and low tension soft beam which creates problems in weaving.
Beamwidth should be set precisely. Improper adjustment of beam width results in the form of loose or tight selvedges of the beam.
The sizing liquor should be cooked properly. It is cooked up to 135 degrees Celsius, then the steam supply is stopped. Now the liquor is kept for one hour at this temperature. Thus liquor is ready to use.
The moisture content of sizing ingredients should be taken into consideration before deciding the amount of water to dissolve the ingredients.
The sizing ingredients should be used according to the quality and count of yarn.
The operator should always be kept close watch over the reed during operation. Little negligence of the operator can be dangerous for a beam to be produced. 
The concentration of sizing liquor in the sow box should be checked with the refractometer after every hour.
The lapped end should be repaired carefully.
The pressure of the beam pressure roller should be proper.     

PROCESS CONTROL IN SIZING:

The process control programme in the sizing process is a very important aspect. If it is not followed properly and continuously, the quality and productivity are affected badly. The proper monitoring and follow-up of the process control programme greatly improve the quality and productivity. The following points should be checked and controlled regularly as per schedule:
Size recipes and size pick-up:                                                        
This is a very important factor in the sizing process. The selection of correct recipes plays a decisive role in the quality of sizing. The quality parameters of warp yarn are tested before making a selection of size recipes. Mainly a number of imperfections per kilometre of yarn (thick places, thin places, neps, unevenness %), tensile strength, elongation at break and R.K.M.( tenacity in grams per tex) are tested properly. The warp having poor tensile strength needs more quantity of binders, the yarn having more thin places also need to increase more binders in sizing liquor. Thus yarn properties directly affect the selection of sizing liquor recipes. The size pick-up is also selected according to warp yarn properties. The poor yarn needs more pick-up than strong yarn.
 Preparation of sizing liquor:
The sizing liquor is prepared very carefully to achieve the best process performance. Every step of the preparation of sizing liquor is performed properly and precisely. First of all the required amount of water in litres is taken in the cooking vessel. It is measured accurately with the help of a long graduated metallic scale in terms of inches then the volume of water in litres is calculated according to the level of water. Now the required sizing ingredients according to size recipes are weighed with the help of physical balance precisely. These ingredients are added to water in a definite sequence. The adhesives are added first then binders are added into the water. Other ingredients are mixed at last. The softener is added in the storage of sizing liquor to avoid its evaporation. It should always be noted that the stirrer is moving continuously during the period of liquor preparation.  Now the cooking of liquor is carried out. When the temperature reaches to definite point (135 degrees Celsius), the steam supply is stopped in the vessel. The liquor is kept at this temperature for 1 to 1.5 hours then it is transferred into the storage vessel. The viscosity of liquor is checked precisely, the concentration of liquor is measured accurately before using the liquor. If there is found any deviation in parameters, corrective steps are taken.
Size pick-up percentage:
The amount of sizing ingredients picked up by warp yarn expressed in the term of percentage is called size pick-up. It is the most important factor in the sizing process. Required size pick-up is decided according to yarn count, quality ends per inch and picks per inch in the fabric to be bobbin. Poor and fine count yarn needs higher size pick-up. The less size pick-up than the required amount causes higher-end breakage in the sizing and weaving while more size pick-up than the required amount causes an increase in sizing cost and end breakage during sizing too. There is not any method to check size pick-up on the spot accurately. The concentration of sizing liquor is kept 2% less than the required size pick-up percentage. The squeezing pressure is kept 0.5 to 1.0 kg per inch square. The strength of the sized warp is judged manually by breaking the end. The slippage of fibres in the yarn during breaking is seen. If there is minimum slippage of fibres after breaking the sized end the quality of the sized warp is supposed to be better quality. The size pick up is analysed in the laboratory by desizing the warp yarn. This method is not much reliable. The most reliable method of analysis of size pick-up is to find the weight of all empty warper’s beam and with warp yarn thus the weight of warp before sizing is obtained. Now the weight empty weaver’s beam is found. The weight of the weaver’s beam is found after sizing with sized warp yarn. The weight of a sized warp is found. The size pick-up % is calculated as follow:



Stretch percentage:
The elongation in the warp yarn occurred during sizing expressed in the term of percentage is called stretch percentage. It is kept as low as possible in the sizing process. if it increases more than the limit, it is too dangerous to the warp yarn. It should be ranged between 1 – 2%. The setting of warp tension between different parts of the machine is performed accurately to minimise the stretch percentage. It is calculated just after the sizing of 100 – 200 metres of warp. If the value of it is found more than the limit, the tension between different parts of the machine is reduced to control the stretch percentage. The strength percentage is calculated as follow:



Moisture content: Moisture content in the warp after sizing is necessary. If a sized warp has less moisture, there will be much end breakage during weaving. If it contains more moisture, there will be excess end breakage during the sizing process. The value of moisture content in the sized warp ranges between 7 – 9 %.
Quality of beam: The quality of the beam depends on the extent of the required sizing parameters during the process. If all the required parameters are achieved precisely and successfully, the best quality sized beam results. Minimum end breakage, stretch percentage, correct size pick-up, moisture content, give improved quality of the sized beam. If the machine stops repeatedly due to any reason, the quality of the sized beam is affected. The variation in steam supply pressure results in the form of poor drying of warp which causes warp breakage. The surface of the cylinder catches a layer of sizing liquor, which goes with the warp and causes end breakage. 
Machine speed:
The speed of the sizing machine depends upon the collective achievement of various sizing parameters. The steam supply, size pick-up, viscosity of sizing liquor, stretch percentage, moisture content, quality of warper’s beam, sizing operator skill and quality of warp yarn to be sized are the factors that directly influence the speed of the sizing machine. 

VARIOUS SIZING FAULTS, CAUSES AND THEIR REMEDIES:
The various kind of sizing faults and their causes are given below:
Short ends:  When the broken end is wrapped on the warper’s beam, stainless steel roller, drying cylinder or drag roller, the short end results in the sized beam. The wrapping of the end mainly occurs due to the un-mend warp end in the warping. This fault can be controlled up to a maximum extent by controlling short ends in the warper’s beam.
Sticking ends:  When there is high-end breakage in the sizing, the broken ends become out of yarn separators. These ends lie without separation in the beam. These broken ends stick to each other. This is a very serious fault in the sizing process. The sticking ends can be controlled by reducing end breakage up to the optimum level. It is necessary to control all the parameters related to end breakage.
Sagging ends:  The ends in the sized beam having less tension than normal are called sagging ends. Sagging ends occur due to uneven tension on the ends in the warper’s beam. The sagging ends can be avoided by putting equal warp tension on each end. 
Cut marks: When the broken end is wrapped on the squeezing roller, stainless steel roller or drag roller, the pressure at that particular place on the warp sheet increased, which causes cut marks in the warp sheet. Any uneven surface of stainless steel roller, squeezing roller or drag roller also cause cut marks in the sized beam.
Sizing liquor marks: When the machine stops for a long time to repair any problem, deep size marks occur in the beam. These are objectionable marks that also appear on the fabric surface. The warp ends are displaced from their position. When there is a need to stop the machine for long period, the machine is inched after regular intervals of a short period to prevent deep size marks. If the inching of the machine is not possible, the size marks are washed with water before drying.
Uneven size pick-up:  Size pick-up is always even throughout the width of the warp sheet. If there is a difference in warp pick-up between the middle and edges of the warp sheet, this is called uneven size pick-up. There may be two causes of uneven size pick-up. One cause is the difference between squeezing pressure of the left and right sides of the roller due to improper working of the pneumatic cylinder. The second reason is the different diameters of stainless steel roller and squeezing roller between middle and edges. When the machine is worked, the extreme edges of these rollers are left unused. The middle portion of these rollers is rubbed into the yarn and the diameter of these rollers is reduced gradually in the middle portion. Thus the diameter of edges remains unchanged and the diameter in middle is reduced beyond the tolerance limit. Uneven squeezing pressure results on the warp sheet so that uneven size pick-up results. To avoid this fault, the working of the pneumatic cylinder should be check regularly. The grinding of stainless steel roller and squeezing roller should be carried out when the diameter difference between the middle and edges becomes beyond the tolerance limit.  
Over drying: Overdrying of warp sheet enables the moisture content in the sized warp sheet to be too low. It creates excessive-end breakage in weaving. To prevent this fault, the sizing speed should be selected precisely and increase if needed. When there is no possibility to increase the machine speed, the steam pressure in the drying cylinder should be reduced.
Under drying: If the sized warp sheet contains more moisture percentage than the standard amount, this is called under drying. It causes end breakage in sizing and creates the possibility of bacteria development while the sized warp beam remains unused.
Streaks in beam: When the distribution of ends in the beam is not even the streaks in the beam result. It occurs due to uneven denting of warp ends in the reed.
Loose selvedges: when the beam width is slightly greater than the reed width, the selvedges of the beam become loose. It creates tension problems in weaving. 
Tight selvedges: When the beam width is slightly less than the reed width, the beam selvedges become tight and ends breakage on the selvedges results.
Loose winding tension: If winding tension is less than required, the beam becomes loose and results in the form of warp tension variation in weaving. 
High winding tension: When the winding tension is more than required, the beam becomes more compact. The yarn losses its elongation and results in the form of high-end breakage in weaving.
Cut selvedges: Cut selvedges occur due to the rough edges of the weaver’s beam flanges. To avoid this problem, the edges of the flanges should be smooth.


Please click on the below video link to watch the full article in Hindi:



Related articles:

Fabric tearing strength testing by falling pendulum ( Elmendorf) tester